After a tremendous storm here in Southern California (and I mean TREMENDOUS…), the skies parted long enough for a day or two of incredible action in the north OC.

Homie & pro bodyboard phenom Jeremy Wright actually surfed big Long Beach!  I’m not talking about typical thigh slappers here… try 4-5′ hollow sets!

Seal, of course, fired up, but everyone had to dodge the wicked high tide during dawn sessions.  Peaks popped up at the normal locations, and even short Cloudbreak pushed a few through for the log jammers.

What was most amazing about this swell window was the fact that it came during one of the most epic storms So Cal has ever encountered.  The tsunami warning system in coastal Seal Beach blared off as a tornado touched down in Long Beach, parts of Seal Beach and Sunset Beach, and did damage in Huntington Beach.  There’s an image floating around the web of a waterspout touching down what seems to be several hundred yards due north of Ruby’s at the end of the Huntington Beach pier.  The storm had brought so much rain to the southland that many urban areas were flooded out.  The sheer volume of trash and litter that has swept up onto local beaches is astounding, counting in everything from tires and televisions to shopping carts and Christmas trees.  A stretch of beach in Newport, from roughly 40th St to the pier, has significant erosion that has surfaced rocks under what used to be the beach head, and rudded cliffs along some parts, up to 5′ in certain spots.  Snowboarders and skiers are loving it, though.  Big Bear looks like the Himalayas, and the main road up the mountain was just opened this morning after a day’s closure due to harsh conditions.

Crazy…

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